The craft of curing and aging protein and vegetables alike has been around for thousands of years. You begin to gather a sense of accomplishment, a feeling of ‘look at what I have created’, patiently waiting as salt and humidity magically preserve as time would on a well kept bottle of vino. Curing does the same thing a hot flame would – the process of searing, locking in the flavor and preserving. The difference being that it is a much longer practice but in turn stabilizes food for much longer then simply cooking it.
This is how it works: salt drains protein of water (moisture) therefore slowing down the growth of harmful bacteria.
Ingenious process in an era when your refrigerator was winter. Astonishingly delicious however when curing is not what may or may not keep you alive till the spring.
I deeply enjoy putting in time and effort into curing, whether it is fish, meat, or preserving fruits and vegetables. It’s a craft that demands respect, demands understanding and above all patience, a virtue that I am not too familiar with 12 hours each day. The rules are simple yet they must be followed thoroughly, and frankly if they’re not or you decide to skip a step somewhere along the way just remember you may kill someone with your E. coli spiked salami.
Invest in a jar of pink curing salt (fairly inexpensive and available on-line) cheese cloth, some strong kitchen twine, lots of kosher salt and whatever other flavorings you’re absolutely mad about. Raw protein is an excellent vessel for flavor so remember to use herbs and spices wisely, but most importantly have fun with it.
For ideas, recipes and guidance on everything about curing I strongly recommend Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn, I keep a copy above my butcher block at all times.
Horseradish and Gin Cured Salmon
6 oz brown sugar (dark or light, depending on preference)
6 oz kosher salt
2 – 3 pound fresh salmon with skin removed
¼ c gin
¾ c horseradish, freshly grated
In a bowl mix sugar, salt, horseradish and gin into a well incorporated paste. Place the skinless salmon in a pan that is just large enough to hold it. When curing meat most instructions will advise not to use a stainless steel pan to minimize chemical reaction. However, because curing fish takes days and not months using a stainless steel pan is quite fine. Rub the paste on both sides of the salmon making sure there is an even coating throughout.
I simply slice it and serve it with good crusty bread and cracked pepper vinaigrette. But you may treat as you would smoked salmon, perhaps on a bagel with some good champagne for brunch.
Enjoy.
{ 2 comments }
I admired your recent post on curing. I live in Vancouver BC where we enjoy a vibrant culinary scene. I forage wild berries in the summer and make potent marinades, ketchups and salsas with the black huckleberry and have often thought I'd dry some for a cured moose meat salami. My brother-law recently had success in the moose hunt and it would be interesting to have your comments on this. Any suggestions?
I think the huckleberry idea is fabulous. I myself am a big fan of fennel when it comes to curing meat. As for the moose -because of its low fat content I would personally find a happy ratio of moose to pork fat to give it that wonderful oily flavor you would get from salami. If apposed to the idea of introducing a bit of pork fat into the moose, I would treat it along the lines of a bresaola, because of the moose meat close similarity to veal or beef- of coarse brining prior to the dry cure to assure a moist finish product. Hope this helps.
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