Almost a year ago we decided to hire an intern named Lottie, a former lawyer from Honduras who set out to follow her life long dream in the kitchen. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu of Orlando, Lottie came to us with one request – teach me! 

It was not long after we took her in that she showed her natural ability to not only cook really good food but to put the highest level of focus into even the most miniscule task. Her work could be spotted sitting on the shelf of a crowded walk-in amongst dozens of the same thing.  Her discipline was like nothing I have ever seen in any cook I have ever had the privilege to work with. Her dice each cut to perfection not a hair different in symmetry from the one before it. It took a lot of pressure off knowing that as long as she was in the kitchen things were going to be done right.

Although it drove me absolutely nuts watching her doing the same task for hours at the time, it was clear she was obsessed with finding the patience to get as close to perfection as possible- a quality many good and seasoned cooks sadly never find.

As time went on I looked forward to mornings with Lottie prepping for the nightly onslaught to come. We talked about difference in cultures and how although geography affects food, we all share the same recipes with a variation in ingredients. She shared recipes from her childhood and opened our eyes to a cuisine we hardly knew anything about.

Friday is Lottie’s day to cook staff meal. We never know what the hell she going to make but I for one look forward to it every week. My favorite is a side dish she serves with every meal called encurtido, a concoction of quick pickled onions and carrots with hot chilies. Surprisingly not too different in concept than kimchi or sauerkraut, encurtido is South America’s addition to the relish family.

Ever since I discovered the stuff I put it on everything from grilled meat, burgers, fish tacos,  soups or munch on it alongside bread and goat cheese. I have even used its brine to marinate protein or to dress salads. Encurtido- my new best friend.

Encurtido – according to Lottie

2 cup water

½ cup vinegar – your choice

1-2 bay leaf

Carrots – not too big, not too small, sliced however you want as long as they all look the same

Onion – more onion than carrots, sliced

Jalapenos or any spicy peppers – sliced round, seeds attached

Dash kosher salt

Dash black pepper

Place water and vinegar in a pot along with the salt. Bring to a boil and add the onions, carrots and peppers. Simmer till the vegetables are wilted but still hold a nice crunch.

Remove from heat, add black pepper and allow to cool down to room temperature. Place in plastic or glass jar, refrigerate and use at will.

It will keep indefinitely, as long as you use a clean utensil to remove from jar. Be aware that the longer the encurtido marinates, the spicier it will become.

Everyone has that one moment. That perfect place in time when everything seems to align in perfect harmony. That jump start to all reason. The “ohh, I get it!”

I couldn’t have been any older than 9 years old when I experienced this nearly orgasmic sense of conquest. Standing nearly at eye level with the high kitchen counter, I watched in awe as oil slowly drizzled, in what seemed to me a perfectly glowing stream that had no end, into a bowl of egg yolk, as a hand magically fused their molecules together. Baffled by what was happening I nearly lost sense of time and space. The hand moved rapidly – a pinch of this a squeeze of that. Suddenly there it was. Just a few moments before what I thought to have been a product of nature harvested from some far off land – mayonnaise.

I prefer using a wooden spoon inplace of the wire whisk.

It was that day in my father’s kitchen that I began to question all things food, and more specifically the discipline behind it. I spent many hours and needless to say much product, in attempting to recreate my own mayonnaise. I tried relentlessly, adding the oil to the egg, whisking mad, splattering walls and people around me. Still, no mayonnaise. Defeated I asked my father to show me how it was done. I watched his hands closely, callused from years of practice as they carefully cracked an egg and separated it. Grabbing the oil from the shelf, smelling it for the proper scent, he took the time to explain- not something that happened often- that using all the right ingredients meant nothing unless one correctly applied method.

I starred into the bowl as the molecules once again fused together slowly, creating a pillow of white. I understood the importance of taking proper time, the importance of carefully preparing each separate ingredient, and most importantly that there was more to cooking than magic- there was science. I remember the first time I had finally succeeded in my own making of mayonnaise. I felt like I had conquered a fear, an impossibility. I had harvested the making of an emulsion, and the confidence that proper execution led to a successful end product.

But I wasn’t happy with just a successful product, I wanted the best product I could make. With each attempt I was on the search for the perfect mayonnaise. I understood how it was made but I did not understand why sometimes it worked and sometimes it did not. It had a life of its own it seemed, never knowing what mood it would be in at the next attempt. What I didn’t take into consideration were all of the other elements- temperature, and volume.

To this day I enjoy enormously the making of mayonnaise and its importance to my understanding of food. It taught me to be present in my work. That every element and every action has an affect on the outcome. It taught me that perfection was something to always work towards through practice and patience but something never to be reached.

 Mayonnaise

1 egg yolk

1 cup olive oil

Squeeze lemon

Salt

White Pepper

Ratios are often as important as recipes themselves. The important thing to remember is that to every cup of oil there is a yolk. Everything else in this recipe can be applied to suit personal taste preference.

 Make sure the egg is at room temperature. This can be done by allowing the egg to sit out on the counter for about 30 minutes, or preferably use a fresh egg when available.

Carefully separate the yolk into a non reactive bowl- glass or ceramic work best. Making mayonnaise by hand is a gratifying process. If you choose to use a mixer, emulsion blender or any of the hundred of other gadgets out there that promise the perfect mayonnaise, go for it- just don’t tell me about it.  

Dampen a kitchen towel with water and roll it around the base of your bowl for additional stability. Slowly begin to whisk in the oil- first a few droplets at the time till fully incorporated, gradually increasing to a steady stream. You will begin to see the egg molecules break apart and begin to merge with the oil, turning the mixture increasingly pail as more oil is introduced. As you rapidly whisk, the mixture should now begin to thicken slightly. Keep whisking at this pace till all of the oil is incorporated. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper, and go make a sandwich.

Continuing on the previous subject of Hunt 2 Table, it is time to explore the more delicate perhaps more intricate side of Charcuterie – condiments. This is the much less testosterone frenzied side of the platter and in my opinion includes everything that is not meat.

I have this consuming obsession (one of many) when I work with food to end up with as close to zero waste as possible while still producing an edible product. That to me is as near to cooking perfection as one can get. After all cooking is not only about applying heat, but also proper product usage and execution.

Not always is it a good thing, at times I should have stopped long before the no waste mark, hence- cider spiced frog legs. By far the most inedible dish I have ever concocted resulting from the cleaning out of an old spice rack. I urge you now, if you ever think of it a good idea to crust frog legs with allspice and cinnamon, you are better off eating fermented tofu. Strangely I am justly proud of that horrific dish as it taught me not to cook out of desperation.

Every once in a while there comes along a product that with a formula consisting of careful execution, purpose, and a touch of imagination proves to have no end in usage.

About six weeks ago I began to preserve some lemons, a process that usually takes about 3 weeks. Instead of the usual salt preservation I used sugar which resulted in an amazing delicate balance of sweet and that wonderful lemon sour. Honestly I forgot all about them, tucked in the back of the cooler they were lost amongst the other random culinary explorations. When I did finally remember about them, what I found set off a spark of imagination.

The water from the lemons had separated, mixing with the sugar and therefore dissolving some of it to create a syrupy sludge. I decided to strain the lemons out and allow this sugar sludge to sit in a coffee filter over the course of a day. Once all the liquid drained I found that the lemons had infused it in the preservation, resulting in lemon infused simple syrup. The sugar left over in the coffee filter also tasted of lemon. I spread the sugar out as thin as I could onto a baking pan and allowed it dry for a couple of days. Pleased that the lemon fragrance remained in the sugar crystals I placed them into a spice grinder producing what I called lemon infused caster sugar.

What to do with these separate components is now the next challenge. The lemons themselves can be used in spreads, baked goods or perhaps a fruit sauce. I find that they pair especially well with highly spiced pates, and are a great balance for savory cured meats. The syrup, maybe mixed with powder sugar could result into a lemon glaze. As far as the actual sugar, I have so far used it to rim cocktails and the crowd has found it quite pleasing.

Sugar Preserved Lemons

4 of the best lemons you can find
Sugar – enough to completely cover the lemons

Cut the lemon ends off and slice them in half so that they sit up. Place them in a container just big enough to hold them, and cover them completely in sugar. Place a piece of plastic wrap over the container and date them to help you keep track. Place them in the refrigerator.

Now literally forget about them, act as it they don’t even exist and in about 5 to 6 weeks you will find the same results with your lemons.

 Enjoy