white heat and the fire left behind

by Manny on November 7, 2011

Scorched earth.

In the way of personal relationships, there are few industries like mine that attribute to the term as if it were a trophy. Obsession is one thing, my career- a straight forward illness. No one chooses this path, it is engraved within our soul. Every drop of blood encrypted with the desire and termination to abandon all hope for emotional attachment. I could never be a food writer. I rather leave that to the Bourdains of the world, far more talented individuals whose words elevate experiences in food further then the value of the moment which they immortalize. I have chosen the path of giving you an insight into the wondering, tormented, and most of the time lonely mind of the chef.

This post, this very moment however, not about me. It’s about one of the few men, few people who I will give credit to for the inspiration that has brought me here.

As I ponder on the cover of one of the most controversial cook books written in the past century, I see the face of a man torn. Marco Pierre White took the stage at a time when the world needed something to be hungry about. A renegade tormented by hunger for success and lust for amortization.

“I have done nothing apart from cook for the last ten years. I’ve had no social life to speak of, no real time to myself and there’s been a lot of pain and suffering getting there. One day
I’ll go to France; That’ll be my finishing school. Now it’s time to make money, because no money, no love, no food.”
This, the opening quote to the his first book. A testament not of the food which he prepared but to the life which he gave up to elevate this profession. Without ever speaking a single word of french, he beat the culinary power at their own game. Simplistic style fueled by love and a fire raged by passion. There is comfort in reading this , knowing this thought didn’t transcribe from my brain alone and first off. Social life, commitment, alone time, there is no such thing. I’m never alone in my brain, I wonder to sleep thinking of how to better prepare a dish, I awake with the answer, as if in the sleep I worked through the problem.

“If I came to your house for dinner an hour late, then criticized all your furniture and your wife’s haircut and said all your options were stupid, how would you feel? People still come here and expect a three-course meal in an hour. What do they think I do- pull rabbits out of a fucking hat? I’m not a magician.” Marco understood the importance of pristine ingredients, softly coaching them to that careful balance between perfection and ruined. There is a connection between him and the cooks of today, myself included. Understanding the importance of keeping a full house, while wanting the full house to understand the importance of keeping their mouths shut as they wait for a meal. A meal prepared with the same balance and dedication Marco used to rise to the top.

“When I go out to eat, I’m the ideal costumer. I eat the meal and go home and don’t complain. I’d never make a fuss. But the difference between me and the other customers is that my expectations are realistic.” To be anonymous in this profession has it’s benefit. The wait staff never knows who you are, the kitchen prepares the meal the same way it would for every other customer that night. The advantage is going home knowing that you are better. Learning what not to do, and the satisfaction in the delicate comprehension that your so believed competition is of no contest.

“I am a man of extremes. I can’t stand things that are diluted- only drinks benefit from that. I want a hundred per cent of everything, or everybody, or nothing at all.” This is the downside to loosing yourself in a single focus. Like blinders on a race horse, that horse has no clue it is running against anyone else. It only knows to give the track abandoned attention. Unsatisfied with every performance, no matter of the success. A bit depressing it may be, that no matter how far we come in our search for perfection there is nothing to be happy about. Only thoughts of how different things would have been in the presence of the ‘what if’.

We are not rock stars, us chefs. We are not satisfied or content. We live one morsel at the time, wondering how much more it will take, how much more is left, before we accomplish contentment. Contentment however is only a word, never to be reached. Marco had accomplished every accolade available. Gathered every award created and still nothing satisfied his search. Finally coming to realize that he was being judged by people who knew less about his profession then he did. And with that realization he disappeared from the stage without a bow. Unsatisfied that satisfaction only lived within himself. Unattainable, and diluted.

“At the end of the day, its just food, isn’t it? just food.” It’s not about the food, Marco. It’s about filling the void created by a craft with too many opinions, too many voices to satisfy them all. In his footsteps I find myself wondering- how much will it take to no longer be hungry.
All quotes collected from Marco Pierre White; White Heat.

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a wonderful love affair

by Manny on August 25, 2011

Although I am not from this place, thousands of miles from home, it is clear that my heart, my soul belong here.

Three days ago I landed in New York City. There is something about this place that has always captured my attention. Her lights, her people, her infectious inspiring character which I carry with me always. I came to this place alone. Hoping to find signs that what I felt inside of me was myth. I desperately wanted to prove myself wrong. Instead, I found that I can not do without her. There’s a lot of pain in leaving a place that you know you belong in. Within my broken heart I need to find a way to turn this pain into drive.

I wont leave her for too long. I will be back, and when that day comes she will welcome me as she has done before.

This is my promise to a city that offers every dream a person aspires to achive. This is the first time I am not thrilled to head back home. That must say something, right?

I of course miss my family, especially Amelie. I miss the friendly faces. I miss my team.

So, enough with the sappy bullshit. Lets get to the skinny. Lets talk food. I ate my way through the city. Literally. Since I visited New York last, I had compiled a mecca list of establishments and institutions which I held high expectations for. Not all of them where met. Proving my theory that if you really want to know where you stand in your industry, go knock on the doors you admire most. It can be as scary as Billy Mays coming back from the dead, but when you see and touch for yourself, you learn quickly.

I dedicated my first day to discovering southern food in the city. To say that I was not impressed is a compliment to the kitchens I visited. In quoting Ja-Z (with a bit of word tailoring)- I know we are facing a recession, but the food those people are cooking is going to turn it into a great depression.

My first run into mecca started with the Momofuku group. David Chang at the helm of this empire lead me to expect a reservoir of renegade talent. Exactly that was delivered. Ssam bar was a stop worth its walk. My only disappointment was Momofuku’s Milk Bar. You know, crack pie and cereal milks..

The sweets were nothing special, and their stale texture from hanging too long around the shop, stole thunder from the experience.

A day in Brooklyn showed me some of the best deli’s, cheese shops, and hole in the walls I’ve ever been exposed to. Stopped by the meat ball shop on Bedford Avenue. I have no shame in saying that those white boys can cook some mean fucking balls.

Waiting in line for an hour and half at Grimaldi’s – a 71 year old pizza institution, was nostalgic, but unfortunately far from happening. Roberta’s in Williamsburg was dope to say the least. The New York Times blushed like a virgin in  a love letter it wrote to them. Not bad for a bunch of hipsters with pizza paddles. Those cooks can put out a mean plate.

In Manhattan, the lights and beautiful women were enough to keep me satisfied, but a growing boy gots to eat. And that I did. Stumbling across Eatily – Mario Batali’s Italian spin on Whole Foods was a treasure of an experience. Besides the bad ass pasta shop and bakery that resided within, there was Manzo. Mario’s take on beef head-to-tail dinning. After an aged “Piemontese” beef carpaccio with fiddle heads, there was a roasted rib eye cap with large couscous. Simple, resourceful and divine. With precision the crew pushed out every plate.

A couple drinks at the Breslin was followed by thrice cooked chips, lamb burgers, and pork fat peanuts. April Bloomsfield is doing it right. Just hopes she closes down John Dory soon. Its becoming a bit of a Broadway embarrassment.

Back underground, shades strapped on through the subway and back up for air in the West Village for Prune. My last lunch in the city. Mind blowing, even more then the food to me, was how tiny the place was. Proving that it  is not the size of the pebble that makes a splash, its how hard it is thrown. Food knowledge wins here. Simplicity paired with pristine ingredients. I only hope that the day crew learns to taste the food they prepare. Salt would have been nice.

Many don’t deserve a mention, as they allowed fame to take over quality and their ability to care about the client. Next time I’m in the city I will be harmed with an entirely new list, empty stomach, and as always – open mind. I am not one to judge the purpose of a dish. I concentrate on the flavors and composition. I fully trust the chef to have thought deeply about what they serve, and assume they have conducted each element with purpose and reason. I hope the same kindness is returned to me when I hit the city with a place of my own.

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wine, loud music, & delirium

August 7, 2011

I’ve been absent from writing for a bit now. I won’t lie to you (and by you, I am assuming that there is only one of you out there who actually reads this. And that one person is probably my wife, who only reads my blogs because she also happens to be my publicist, constantly [...]

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I have been that cook

April 18, 2011

One of my most inspiring mentors is the talented Chef Tom Colicchio. Unbeknown to him, he has shaped my views on cuisine largely for the better and helped me throughout my career on grasping the importance of evolving within the kitchen. The single most valuable lesson he has taught me is that no chef ever [...]

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new chapter

April 11, 2011

Today was the first day in the past four months that I felt in control of the world around me. Watching my daughter playing in the grass, sun shining on her skin. Tapping of branches along a fence post, the smell of crawfish water lingering about. Blankets scattered on the lawn, cold beer in my [...]

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studying the baker’s hands

December 3, 2010

Dear Amélie, I’ve been meaning to write this post for a while. Until you came along I haven’t had a reason to do so. I have always been fascinated by watching people’s hands. Studying the movements that go into practicing a craft. The craftsman’s passion grooved into every wrinkle. Worn from years of repetitive movement. [...]

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daddy is a duck killer

October 22, 2010

Dear Amélie, Daddy is a duck killer. And it doesn’t stop there. There is an entire array of animals. Innocent, yes. But always the happiest and raised with the outmost respect. Killed out of affection for food- a pleasure you shall find irresistible. You see dear, food comes at a price. One that dollars signs [...]

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what’s in the bottle?

September 19, 2010

Dear Amélie, In daddy’s world there are many ingredients that cooks and chefs alike covet with outmost esteem.The woods of Alba come alive in the fall with foragers led by trained hogs to find these things called truffles. Knobs of dirt covered fungus, that unfortunately for their reputation are very expensive, yet a true wonder [...]

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Dear Amélie,

September 11, 2010

Sitting in the post delivery room with your wife and child is a feeling indescribable unless you’ve been there and done that. Cliché, perhaps, but within the course of 24 hours wrapping your head around just how much has changed can be a bit overwhelming if not altogether traumatizing.  Family comes and goes. Steady trots [...]

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think outside the box

September 7, 2010

It has been a while. Again. In fact it has been so long since I’ve posted that I was unsure whether my fingers could find their way around the keyboard. The truth of it is, I’ve been swamped. Family, work, other work, foraging from farm to farm, more family, playing with meat, and that whole [...]

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